IMPROVISING SEAFOOD SAUCE by Tim Granzeau
INGREDIENTS: Aromatics, Herbs, Spice, and more ALIUMS: Leeks, Garlic, Shallots, Scallions, Cipollini’s, Chives, Scapes, Ramps and/or other Onions HERB: Herbs de Provence, Chervil, Tarragon, Basil, Parsley stems or tops. Herb Butter, Saffron SPICE: Capers, Fennel, Fennel Fronds, Celery, Brussels Sprouts, Zest and/or Juice of Citrus. Pimenton, 5 Spice, Adobo, Cajun, Chili Paste, FLAVOR: Bar Harbor Clam Juice (low salt), Fish Fumet, Anchovy, Anchovy Oil, Shellfish Stock/Puree/Butter, Pastis, White Wine, Calvados, Cider, Cognac, Calvados, Sherry, Sherry Vinegar, Cultured Cream, Crème Fraiche, Butter or Browned Butter. FIINISH: Salt (Maldon, Pink, Sea), Pepper, Aleppo Pepper COOKING OPTIONS: You may sauté aromatics first & remove to cook the seafood. Fry/poach/roast 1” thick fish fillets in the sauté pan over Medium Fry seasoned fish 2 mins. on a side with brown butter. Add aromatics and sauce. Bring to a very low simmer. Cook in open pan or in oven to 120F. Cover pan off heat. Finish the Sauce Liaison: Depending on the sauce volume, you may strain sauce & reduce to thicken or mount with butter or crème fraiche. You may also finish as a sabayon. Garnish with parsley, chervil and fennel fronds. Plate fish aromatics & sauce with rice, farro or pearl couscous.
ROASTED GARLIC SABAYON FOR SEAFOOD INGREDIENTS: 2 heads of garlic (roasted to very soft) 4 teaspoons EV olive oil 1/2 cup bottled clam juice or fish fumet 3 tablespoons dry wine and pastis 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 4 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon each- chopped fresh parsley, fennel fronds, fresh tarragon, chives, saffron, basil PREPARATION: Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut top 1/4 inch off heads of garlic to expose cloves. Place garlic heads on large sheet of foil. Drizzle 1 teaspoon oil over garlic and wrap loosely but completely in foil; place packet directly on oven rack and roast until very soft, about 45 minutes. Cool. Squeeze garlic from skins into bowl. Using fork, mash roasted garlic until smooth. Bring clam juice and vermouth to boil in small saucepan; remove from heat. Stir in lemon juice. Whisk egg yolks and 2 tablespoons roasted garlic puree in large metal bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in clam juice mixture. Place bowl over saucepan of simmering water (do not allow bowl to touch water) and whisk until sabayon is thick and creamy and thermometer registers 160°F, about 3 minutes. Remove bowl from over water. Whisk in parsley, tarragon, and chives. Season sabayon with salt and pepper. MORE SAUCE OPTIONS
Rouille: Ingredients: 3 large garlic cloves Microplane 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice (to tame the garlic heat) 1 slice of French bread 1/2” thick 1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled and seeded 1/4 tsp saffron threads, crushed 1 large egg yolk at room temp 1/2 cup EVOO Salt and Aleppo pepper to taste
Procedures: Food process or blend the garlic and lemon juice Add bread and process to fine crumbs Add pepper, saffron and egg yolk and process to puree Slowly add EVOO to a mayo consistency
Season to taste Salmorra (Smoky tomato garlic sauce) Makes 2 cups 1 tablespoon Spanish extra-virgin olive oil 12 whole garlic cloves, peeled 3 ñora chili peppers (any dried sweet chile pepper), seeded
16 ounces canned plum tomatoes (drained) or two crushed fresh
1 teaspoon sugar 1/8 teaspoon sweet pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika) 2 Tablespoons minced parsley 1 teaspoon lemon juice Extra EVOO to adjust flavor and texture Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the chili peppers and toast, stirring, for about 3 minutes, then, add the tomatoes and sugar. Cook for 15 minutes or until the tomato liquid evaporates. Stir in the parsley and pimentón. Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée. Pour into a bowl, and season to taste with lemon juice, salt and EVOO. José Andre tips: This sauce can be kept in the refrigerator, covered, for up to two weeks or frozen for up to 3 months. Be sure to drizzle the top of the sauce with some olive oil before you cover it to prevent it from drying out. |